徒步骊山，与秦始皇共渡下午

出门

11月18日星期五，蒂娜邀请我们出城去爬著名的骊山……或者用艾薇的话说，骊山。我承认它不是中国最大的山，但与周围的乡村相比，它仍然很高。大部分地方也不是很陡峭，这很好，因为我们身材走形了，而且晚上还要工作到很晚。在大多数情况下，我们只是想离开这座城市，蒂娜提出要去骊山，这给了我们一个很好的机会，可以和她一起出去玩，同时还能看到陕西的一个标志性建筑!

周五一大早，我们就醒来了，在我们小区旁边的电子产品市场前遇到了蒂娜。从那里我们步行到长乐路，然后搭了一辆公共汽车到火车站，搭了一辆外地的长途汽车。那天早晨，我有点失望，因为天空一如既往地灰暗。过去几周，浓雾一直笼罩着这座城市。我们并不乐观能在骊山山顶看到任何壮观的景色，但我们确实希望西安市中心地区以外的天空能更清澈一些。舒适的长途汽车向东行驶了大约30公里，行驶在一条明显相当新的高速公路上。有趣的是，这条高速公路似乎是禁止车辆通行的!路上几乎什么都没有!回到安大略，这条高速公路上会有巨大的卡车和成千上万的通勤者进出枢纽。我不认为这里真的存在通勤，除了当地农民每天骑着烟雾缭绕的摩托车进城，在水果和蔬菜市场出售他们的商品。 I assume that the limited number of people who can actually afford a vehicle tend to live in the city as that's where all of the action is. Plus the common idea is to stereotype the country folk as lower class as their living conditions are generallly much worse. This is evident by the people you meet at the market. Not lower class as individuals, but seriously lacking the clean clothes and cool styles that are the aims of the urban population. The division between the rich urbanites and poor country population are more than evident. You can also see it in their teeth! However given the few times we have been outside of Xi'an, the people we have met on our travels have been some of the most interesting. Sure some of them are a little pushing as they are dependent on sales of small goods to tourists, but after a little bargaining, you find them to be very friendly and appreciative of some humour and respect. They're also very curious to find out where we are from. When we tell them 'Women shi Jianadaren. Zai Xi'an, Women shi Yingyu Laoshi' (We are Canadians. We are English teachers in Xi'an), they always respond with a big smile as well as a proclamation that Canada is a wonderful country. Great to hear that our reputation preceeds us! Thank you to all respectable travellers before us. I think our trip here might be a lot more concerning if we suffered from the opposite reputation. It seems though, that the Chinese people are friendly to just about everyone!

寻找蒋

一到临潼县骊山脚下，我们就蜿蜒穿过几条正在施工的老街，然后找到了一条开始漫长登山之旅的路线。这里的空气绝对比大城市干净，尽管光是气味。雾仍然远远笼罩着大地，我们的视野非常有限。然而，这并不能阻止我们的同意。我们走上台阶，开始了我们的旅程。幸运的是，一路上有很多休息站。每家都开着一家小店，店主卖各种商品，从冷饮到装在玻璃柜里的大型玉雕。现在我在爬骊山的时候拿一块玉石怎么办??不确定，所以我礼貌地拒绝了那些礼物。

我们徒步旅行的第一个有趣的部分带我们来到了世界著名的西安事变遗址，在这座标志性的山坡上达到了高潮。那里有许多火炮和车辆的遗迹，包括一辆旧坦克和一架战斗机。偶然发现这样一个历史悠久的地方，我感到很震惊。如果不是一周前我与一位老朋友乔恩·帕奇(Jon Patch)的一次谈话，谈到了他目前在安大略省滑铁卢威尔弗里德·劳里埃大学(Wilfrid Laurier)学习的中国历史，我不会知道我们发现的价值。他告诉我西安事变在20世纪中国政治史和战争史上的重要性。20世纪30年代初，日本帝国主义侵略者已深入内陆，威胁着中国西北地区的渗透。如果你考虑到日本所面临的平民人口的庞大规模，这是一个令人难以置信的壮举。日本人能够将他们的触角延伸到如此遥远的内陆，其中一个原因是中国抵抗军令人失望的状态。在此期间，执政的国民党在军事和政治上日益衰弱。它的大部分精力都花在了对抗他们与日益壮大的中国共产党(毛主席是其创始人)之间日益激烈的内战上。 The CPC were determined to solidify political control in the country and relentlessly pursued the war with the Nationalists. The Xi'an Incident occurred on December 12, 1936. Growing more and more disappointed in the ongoing civil war and the Nationalist's pathetic fight against the Japanese, two Nationalist Generals Zhang Xueling and Yang Hucheng sent their troops to capture their leader Chiang Kai-Shek who was frightened into hiding out in the Lishan hillside. The generals forced him to make a truce with the Communists and join forces against an aggravating and brutal Japanese enemy. This unexpected coalition between these parties caught the world's attention and helped to coordinate a more effective resistance against the Japanese. It was an interesting thought standing there pondering the history. This was the point that the CPC was welcomed into the political stratosphere by the Nationalists, resulting in its surge in popularity throughout the whole of the country. There was a giant stone carving on the side of the mountain depicting many important events that happened around the time of the Incident. The Chinese are so proud of their Communist accomplishments during this time. Another interesting point for us during this stop was our little climb up a small section of steep rocks. The three of us braved the gravity issue and climbed about 10 meters upwards into a small sheltered crevace. This was the actual place where the Nationalist leader Chiang Kai-Shek was found hiding. It was a great experience, however I didn't truly appreciate the significance of our climb until I did some further research into the Incident a few days later. I always find military and political history fascinating and this place was icing on a cake.

树的思想和雕刻魔术师

我们继续往上走，沿途停了几次，欣赏下面这个巨大城镇的朦胧美景。我们遇到了许多古老的亭子，每个亭子都被涂上了许多许多颜色，天花板上经常有详细的古代绘画。其中一站甚至有一个巨大的佛教喷泉，可以俯瞰附近的山上露台。直到我拍了几张照片后，蒂娜才找到我，并告诉我有个老妇人向我走来，要求我为我拍摄的照片的特权支付一些钱。这位女士住在山上一所建在山坡上的房子里，这是她家唯一能赚钱的方式之一。我付一些照片的钱没有问题(实际上我只付了一张，因为蒂娜是一个很好的讨价还价者!!)，尽管我注意到一种趋势，即人们在拍摄他们喜欢的东西时可以很快地要钱。我们向上走，这时我们已经走了一半了。山坡上很平静，气味也很好，尽管我们看到山坡上的一些隧道和洞穴(可能是中国在20世纪30年代和40年代建造的)已经变成了垃圾洞，感到非常厌恶。如果你在闲逛的时候努力去看，你可以看到奇怪的臭堆。多出一点峰，就这样了。 I think the park superintendants should be fired for this blunder! We also came across another group of 'stuff' vendors, where Tina took a picture of Andrea and I in front the 'Couples' trees. Here stood two giant trees beside eachother, each aging around 500 years old. It is said in Chinese culture that if you stand here with your spouse you will endure a long happy marriage together. There was even an altar under the trees for you to light an incense stick for Bhudda to bless your marriage. We didn't go that far, we thought we would surely be charged a handfull for that blessing. Continuing onwards a few dozen meters, we ran into a unique artist who was cutting out the silhouettes of a group of girls that were interested in his craft. He was lightning fast and didn't even draw his subjects before starting into the carvings. His work was second-to-none and dirt, dirt cheap. We had to get ones made for ourselves! We have them ready for a frame when we get home and they're even set up to face eachother!

临潼上天的祝福

我们的下一站是在不远的路程后，我们进入了骊山佛寺。这个发现让我大吃一惊，因为安德里亚和我都不知道这个地方的存在。苏菲坚持要蒂娜找到这个地方，但蒂娜没有把这个消息告诉她。不过一切都好起来了，这个惊喜完全值得!寺庙很大，坐落在向北伸展的山腰上。内部的庭院被古老的建筑围起来，增加了这个地方的压倒性优势。这座寺庙建于公元762年(我很确定)唐朝时期，从那时起就一直在回应这里朝拜者的呼唤。在第一幢楼里，我们买了一套3支大香烛，这是对这个家庭的祝福。我们点燃木棍，在3个主厅各放一根。我不记得每个大厅是干什么用的了，但每个大厅里不同的佛像都是为了祈求家庭、健康、财富和恩典。 I wouldn't say that I am an a avid Bhuddist follower, but I do highly respect the origins and peacefullness of the faith and therefore I chose to kneel at the feet of each of the statues and offer my prayers. How could I not. It was a strange feeling coming from a traditionally Christian background, but the experience was unique and liberating. I did feel a little extra spiritual that day. Everytime I knelt, and old lady would ring a bell, aparently to call upon the Bhudda to head my prayers. Unfortunately when it came time to choose a fortune slip from an old man in the temple, he imformed me that my final wish may be plagued with obstacles. This scares me considering my final wish was for our adventure in China to be full of great spirit, good health and many friends, all the while staying out of trouble. The girls at school laughed at my plight when I told them about it. They said the fortune was up to me to choose to believe it or not. I did however, ensure my blessings that afternoon by purchasing a blessed Bhuddist necklace on our way out of the temple. I felt as though I needed a little extra help in assuring my wishes came true.

骊山的风景

从这里，我们登上陡峭的台阶，到达骊山的山顶。到目前为止，最后500米是最难爬的。凉爽的空气和没有尽头的楼梯迫使我们多次停下来喘口气，欣赏下面越来越少的寺庙和风景。山顶上又有几家礼品店和茶点店，坐落在一座古老的瞭望塔脚下。我相信这座塔也是在700年代建造的。正如沿着长城所做的那样，这座塔是该地区许多用来表示来自西安古城东部地区和周围地区的任何迎面而来的军事威胁的塔之一。瞭望员过去常常在塔的底部点燃大火，大火会蔓延到建筑的顶部，向其他塔和地点发出提前警告。尽管蒂娜告诉我们，天气晴朗时，我们可以看到西安的郊区，但天气不允许我们向任何方向看超过一公里。连山脚我们也几乎看不见。短暂休息后，我们走了一段路，然后决定乘坐骊山缆车下山。 This was a great choice as we were running short on time and the fog began to open up, allowing us fantastic views of the town of Lintong as well as the Emperor's hot springs resort known as the Huaqing Palace Hot Springs. This lies right at the base of Lishan. It is an enormous, beautiful compound that was originally constructed as a garden sanctuary for one of the most famous concubines in Chinese history. Our limited time didn't allow us to tour this place though, we will save the springs for another day. I'll have more valuable information then!

拜访皇帝本人

还有几个小时安德里亚和我就得回去上课了，蒂娜领着我们坐上一辆巴士，向东再走10公里，前往秦始皇的陵墓。这是我们在西安居住期间必去的另一个地点，它没有让我们失望。这座陵墓类似于埃及的帝王谷。秦始皇在他的统治时期是如此受人尊敬和有影响力，他的臣民为他建造了全中国最精致、最华丽和最神秘的陵墓群。陵墓本身位于兵马俑被发现的位置的西边。实际上，兵马俑本身就是为了在来世守护这位强大统治者而建造的。在陵墓周围的不同坑中还埋葬着最初的青铜车、成堆的石制防弹衣、无数的陶罐和其他来世所需的日常用品。秦刚还要求在他身边陪葬真人大小的宫廷艺人和杂技演员的泥塑。真正的墓堆是建在一个巨大的(尽管很短)金字塔里，坐落在平坦的乡村，就在骊山的前面。单单是陵墓的位置和大小，就使我想起了埃及伟大国王的伟大墓地，比如拉美西斯。 The inside of Qin's tomb has not yet been opened for numerous reasons. I have described these reasons, as well as the assumed contents that exist inside the tomb, in a previous writing that accounted our travel to the Terra Cotta Warriors in mid-October. The tomb is filled with mysterious for the mind and soul and we will surely jump on the first plane back to Xian if the government ever chooses to open it in the future. We again jump-started our tired legs and the three of us walked up the many steps to the top of the tomb mound. This position gave us an amazing view of the surrounding mountains and countryside. The weather continued to cooperate, much to our happiness. As 2:30 approached, we quickly hurried back down the hill and scored some great seats for a live, open-air show of a mock ceremony offering Emperor Qin a royal introduction. There was loud music, dancing girls, staged battle scenes, food offerings, bamboo scroll readings, and of course, the entrance of the First Emperor himself on a moving chariot, surrounded by his concubines. What a life that guy must have led. The show was a nice glimspe into the world of the past. I got some great pictures and footage on the camera. The crowd was full, as I'm sure it is every day at this time. I got a good laugh when I went into the gift shop after the show. They had on the wall a few pictures of world leaders from the past visiting the site. Of course, thinking I was American, the woman was quick to point out the large picture of President Clinton. I informed her I wasn't interested however, I was much more impressed with the large picture to the right of Clinton which was none other than Jean Chretian, former Prime Minister of Canada!! I never expected to see a photo of him here, hanging on a wall like a big piece of art at such a famous location! I Didn't know he was even here! I asked to get a picture of the picture but surprise surprise they wouldn't let me snap anything without paying some money...it was, after all, a gift shop. Here that means paying out your ears regardless of what you're looking for, even if it is just a picture.

特价商品和烤山药

在我把女士们聚集起来，又拍了几张照片(那天我拍了大约240张照片!)之后，我们漫步到路边，跳上了下一辆路过的公共汽车，那辆公共汽车正准备返回市区。墓口的公路上挤满了卖各种小饰品的小贩。我被一个卖手工艺品的小老太太拦了下来。最后我买了一只抽象的小猫，不是因为我想要它，而是因为我想和她谈谈。我想她有点被我讨价还价的能力吓到了，不过现在我有点后悔当初这么做了。她是一位善良的女士，但我怀疑她靠卖小手工艺品赚了很多钱。她的外表就是明证。我总是试着讨价还价，把它作为一种练习和与中国人交谈的方式，但这可能是我不应该这样做的时候。话又说回来，讨价还价是他们的生活，如果她和一个中国人做生意，他们可能只会付我四分之一的钱。让我们明确一点，在每个著名景点，中国游客总是远远多于外国游客。 I always get a kick out of talking to vendors. When you walk up to a table the first thing they say is either Hello or Welcome. These words usually make up the total English they know. However there are also many vendors who speak English quite well and have learned the language by no other means than simply dealing with foreigners. The vendors on the muslim street downtown speak some of the best English in Xi'an. After a quick Hello, they immediately move on to pick out some random object on their table and insist to you that it is the best buy you could possilby make. Really? Do I really need a Chairman Mao watch?? But the batteries are dead and the watch may not work! No I don't think I need a cheap bronze Terra Cotta statue either to weigh down my luggage! I don't need a compass either!? Perhaps another passer-by would be more obliging to buy whatever you can convince them too! You never know what you'll find at a vendors table! Across the road from the vendors, the opposite shoulder of the highway was lined one after the other with middle-aged women selling fruit. Lintong County produces a wide assortment of fruits and vegetables, but their main claims to fame are Pommegranates (which are big and yellow with dark red seeds inside...delicious and good for your throat) and a strange 'cousin' of a tomato known as a Persimmon. The girls call them sweet tomatoes. They do look a little like tomatoes from the outside, yet they actually grow on trees and have no seeds. The inside looks more like rusty-red coloured mush. Tina bought a small bag to try so I had to go for it. They have a weird taste. It reminded me of eating salad with French dressing on top. It wasn't too bad but I think I'll stick to the pommegranates. Andrea and Tina also bought another snack for the bus ride home, baked yams! Back home this is the last thing you would ever expect to eat as a snack, but here they're everywhere. They're just as famous as hotdog vendors in the cities in Ontario! People sell them out of the big mobile drums where they bake them inside. The hungry buyers simply grab the yam, peel back the outer skin, and munch away! The sight of people eating yams as snacks is still something that blows my mind every time I see it. Now if there is a vegetable that I have never been able to stomach in my past, (besides the obvious and ever-disgusting Parsnip), it has to be yams and sweet potatoes. They make my tastebuds curdle. That's why Andrea didn't bother to buy me one. Still, since we hadn't eaten all day, I was starving and decided that I had to at least try it! So I did. It was incredible!! It was mushy white on the inside and tasted infinitely better than I assumed it would. No wonder people eat them as snacks here (not that its any less odd when they do!) Actually, I think I'll go buy one today for lunch!


所以我们登上公共汽车，返回西安。很明显，我们上班要迟到了，但我们并不介意。我们有一个美妙的骊山和秦国的冒险。非常感谢你，蒂娜。

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